Monthly Archives: March 2013

Molded Puddings and Mouse Butts

Sometimes I think I am in over my head with this project. Here’s a picture of my latest disaster:

Citronella Pudding Fail

Citronella Pudding: the one on the left was made without wine, the one on the right was made with wine.

I’m a good cook and an experienced cook (I’ve been cooking and baking since I was 10), but I’m no professional pastry chef. Initially I thought, “Lemon Pudding. Yum. How hard could that be?” Here’s the difficulty. Some of the recipes in the Castle Cook’s notebook show up more than once. In the case of Citronella Pudding, there are actually four entries—all a little different. Since there were four, I guessed that Citronella Pudding was eaten frequently at the castle, so I better give it a good try.

One of the recipes involved cooking the pudding, so I set that aside for a later try. The other three seemed to be uncooked, gelled puddings that were set in a mold. The ingredients were the same (except for the addition of wine in one recipe), so I averaged the ingredient amounts to come up with one recipe which I tried both with and without wine. With me so far? I didn’t have ingredients to make a fruit sauce to top the puddings, so I made the puddings and set them to rest overnight in the refrigerator. Big mistake. The pudding with wine was a runny disaster. I think the beaten egg whites started to separate overnight. I had higher hopes for the pudding without wine, but when I unmolded it, it lost it’s shape and splooshed onto the plate, like this:

Citronella pudding failure unmolded

Not a very lovely presentation.

So you might be asking yourself, “Why is this posted entitled ‘Molded Puddings and Mouse Butts’“? After my failed pudding attempt, I trolled the internet looking for other examples of uncooked egg puddings to see if I could improve my technique. Not surprisingly, there are not too many. Nowadays, it’s generally verboden to serve uncooked eggs. However, I found one blog post for Wine or Lemon Pudding from the 19th Century. The description mentioned a book published around the turn of last century called Henriette Davidis’ Practical Cook Book Compiled for the United States From the Thirty-Fifth German Edition. It’s still in print, so of course I ordered it, thinking it could provide some tips I so sorely need. I think it will be a good resource for the deserts I am making, but I wasn’t prepared for the other types of recipes I would find.

There are some things I don’t want to know how to cook. This book includes recipes for such culinary treats as broiled bear paws, brain dumplings, ragout of badger, and roasted beaver tails. There’s pigeon soup for invalids, boiled calf’s head with gravy, head cheese in jelly, and all kinds of ways to cook innards and sweetbreads. The Vocabulary of Culinary Terms at the end of the book even includes an entry for “mouse buttocks”. Seriously? I can’t imagine why roast beaver tail never caught on. For all you iron chefs out there, feel free to email me. I’m happy to pass along any recipes that you think you can stomach.

 

 

Puffer – Bundt Cake

Puffer – Bundt Cake

According to Meike, my translator, a “puffer” in Northern Germany would be a “pot cake”, meaning a plain, stirred cake that is baked in a Bundt pan. I guess we would call it a bundt cake. This is quick and easy to make, but better suited for coffee or tea in the afternoon than served as an after dinner desert.

Puffer – Bundt Cake
1 cup butter
1 cup sugar
4 eggs
4 cups cake flour (or 3-1/3 cup all purpose flour)
1 cup milk
2 tsp. baking powder
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. cardamom

Cream the butter and sugar. Add eggs and mix well. Add baking powder and spices to the flour. Alternate adding flour mixture and milk. Stir until batter is thoroughly mixed.
Carefully butter and flour the entire interior of a bundt cake pan. Pour batter into the bundt pan. Bake at 350°F for 50-60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of cake comes out clean. Take cake out of the oven and let it rest for a few minutes. Turn the cake out onto a wire rack to cool. After cake is completely cool, ice with powdered sugar mixed with a little lemon juice, just enough to turn the sugar into thick, but pourable icing.

Puffer – The Process

Vanille Plättchen – Vanilla Wafers

Vanille Plättchen – Vanilla Wafers

This recipe is super easy. It makes a tasty, dense cookie like a European biscuit-cookie—perfect to serve with coffee or tea. The fresh vanilla gives the cookies a lovely flecked appearance. For my taste, the cookies could stand to be stronger in vanilla, but vanilla beans are more expensive and I assume they were a precious ingredient in the 1920’s, as well. To shape the cookies, the recipe calls for forming the dough into little dumplings. After I kneaded it, I found it easier to roll the stiff dough, then cut it into slices.

1 cup butter
2 whole eggs
1 cup sugar
3-1/3 cups flour
1/2 vanilla pod or bean (or 1 tsp. vanilla extract)
2 tsp. hartshorn (or baking powder)

Cream butter, then add eggs and slowly add sugar, vanilla and flour. Knead everything together well. Form little dumplings from it. Bake for 10-12 minutes for small wafers (approx. 2 inches across) or 15-20 minutes for larger cookies. Cool the cookies on a wire rack.

Vanilla Wafters - The Process